About ready to head off again, I realize that my phone still does not work properly and I have not heard from the CMA and their Video crew in about a week. My phone worked just long enough in order to inform my mother of my aliveness. She was most likely planning my funeral when I called being that I have not spoken to her in 3 days. I decide that I must get some things figured out before I rush off to the river again. The water under the touchscreen on my phone makes it virtually impossible to navigate so I try to find a phone to make some calls on but to no success. After about a half hour of looking for a phone I meet Danny.

Danny is one of the most kind-heated, soft spoken, and sincere people that I have ever met. Danny opened up to me very quickly and he took me under his wing for nearly the whole Day taking me around New Orleans to find a phone. After buying a track-phone Danny took me out to lunch and then to the French Market to buy a cross and a chain to hang around my neck as a reminder of God’s provision throughout this amazing trip. Danny and I had a blast. He rarely gets out of his house due to a medical condition, but because of the testimony of my life through this trip he was extremely encouraged and we spent the entire day together. I would not have been able to have this opportunity if I still had a partner. It would be a darn shame to forget someone like Danny! At the end of the day when we departed after literally seeing the entire city, he expressed to me how much of an impact I had made in his life. He told me that I need to tell my parents that they raised me well, and had so much to say about the entire journey! Danny is an irreplaceable human being. In all honesty, it was people like Danny who made this entire trip worth it! I thank God that nobody decided to steal the kayak. It sat there on the New Orleans river bank all night and all day and it was visible from the other side of the river. Then again I wouldn’t have minded throwing in the towel.

Thursday Night Paddling

So I left New Orleans that night around six. The sunset was very pretty over the city but the heat was still in the upper 90′s… Ohh what fun. Going through the rest of the New Orleans harbor was a bit nerve racking. Especially because if I tipped due to the waves of these astronomically large ships,  I would be fighting Old man River himself. This particular portion of the river was over 200 Feet deep. The barges here were extra friendly, making sure to come as close as possible to hitting my kayak. I was just another bath toy!

So I paddled on into the night dodging barges and ocean liners, and in no time, i was being directed by the light of the moon. My motivation was fading fast, but if I was to make it 100 miles and get back to New Orleans by 11 on Saturday morning for my flight, I had no choice but to push on. To help motivate me, I put my headphones in and began listening to some music. This was a bad decision for a couple reasons. First off, if I cant hear anything, then I must rely on sight to see ships. The ships had four little lightbulbs on their 1/4 of a mile long bodies, but it was nearly impossible to know their direction and speed from those four little lights. And if i cant hear the ships, there is nothing keeping them from sneaking up behind me with their 30 mph cruising speed. Did I mention that they are completely blind to them? Anyways, the moon had been down for about an hour and I got into a pattern of after every song, taking off my headphones and looking around. If all was clear i would continue. Well after a few hours and half way through a song, I hear a voice out of no where resonate in my head. It was saying, “Gene, you should stop and check for ships”. I virtually stopped paddling and thought to myself, “But I am only half way through the song, this is just fear!” So I cast that fear down and continue paddling. For the next twenty seconds my insides were turning and this voice inside me kept getting more earnest and finally I was fed up with this anxious feeling inside of me, so I threw down my paddle and verbally yelled, “Fine! I will check for ships!” As I turn around, all I can see is the silhouette of an Ocean liner, blacker than the night sky and heading strait for me! My path was its path, and in a matter of 45 seconds or less, it would have been right on top of me! My heart didnt even bother to pace it self, but jumped from 60 bpm strait to ramming speed. I have never paddled so fast. Needless to say, I wouldnt have made it through the rest of the song. God spared me, and the prayers of safety of many people were answered that night. After 5 minutes of gaining my composure, i finally got back on the river. The nest thing that happened was a river boat captain warned me, “When you get to mile marker 70, dont stop. There is a grainery there and there are at least on average 50 alligators that live and feed by that grainery. I knew I was getting close based on the curves of the river. Next thing I know, I am turning a corner and there it stood right in front of me. All alone, paddling at night, and already scared out of my mind, I paddle as fast as I could with no intentions of looking back. It gets to be about 1 in the morning and I am starting to wind down for the night. So I start looking for a place to stay, but in pitch dark, this is not the easiest task. I was forced to paddle near the side of the river to get a better look, at the riverbank, and all I could think is, “Yep, if I were an alligator, this is about the type of pace you would find me” there are low trees hanging over the river, and the river edges were swamp or channels that any smart alligator would love to make its home. Well I finally found a sandbar… surrounded by a swamp that I swore was a haven for alligators. Needles to say, I took out my knife, flashlight, and tent and I was on guard at all times. I have never set up that tent so fast. I traveled somewhere around 40 miles, and the most frightening 40 miles of the trip by far!

All of this industry wasnt completely a bad thing. At about noon I was stopped by a small tow boat that was interested in my journey. The crew were all hanging over the tow boat railing to hear of my adventures. They graciously provided me with snacks and refreshments. The captain also came out to join the conversation and he gave me two wise words of advice. First when I get down to the Gulf, take the south pass. (As it is shorter and has less traffic.) Secondly, don’t paddle at night… Haha Woops! As I paddled away we exchanged goodbyes and I was on track again. The weather has been absolutely dreadful for the past 8-10 days. The temperature even at night doesn’t drop below 80. At three in the afternoon I have probably drank a gallon and a half of water and I was all out. It is so hot and humid that when I drink water, I can virtually feel it seeping out of every pore in my body.

It is in the heat of the day, and I have been taking 10 miniute breaks throughout the day to swim and get out of the heat. I pull over on the shore to take a swim and I step out into a foot of mud. At this point I am so hot that I just don’t care and all I want to do is swim. I take out my knife for protection and I face-plant into the luke-warm river. 30 yards from me is a barge docked with a crew of about 20 men on board.  After about 10 minutes in the water, I feel something in my left pocket, so I reach in and pull out a plastic bag. I never carry anything in my pockets, so this surprises me and I wonder if there is anything in my right pocket. So I reach in my right pocket and I pull out my cell phone that is still on! After opening it up hitting my head against a tree for a while, the crew askes ” hey, what are you doing?” I tell them about my current situation and that I am paddling the entire Mississippi river. They all thought I was crazy, and wanted to award my craziness with some cold refreshments. They had never heard of anyone doing this before so I hopped into my kayak to meet them at the barge to get a cold drink. And as I look back to the shore, only 20 yards from where I was swimming two alligators were lurking in the water. I caught the eye of one of them and he followed my kayak to the barge. As the crew handed me a few ice-cold powerades, this alligator came up to the front of my kayak and slowly swam up to about a paddles length away. I look at him and ask, “what do you want, my hand?”  Sooner or later the gator submerged and disappeared into the murky water.

In no time I was again without anything to wet my whistle. I pull over at a grainery and I ask for some water. I met two working men in their 50′s, both of them were strong believers and I had a great talk with one of them about God’s provision in our lives. It just so happened to be the perfect time for this reminder as I was completely out of all sustainable food except granola bars. I said thanks and was on my way in no time.

I dodged barges for a few hours and what do ya know, was dark again and I am still paddling. I tried to find a place to eat and find a phone to call the 100′s of people who probably think I am dead. I paddle so much further than I should have but I could not find a camping spot. I try under a bridge in lulling, LA but all it gave me was mud and I would have to walk through a jungle to get any food. I waste 40 precious minutes of my life there until I decided that it just wasnt going to work. Bug bitten and a little frustrated, I paddle another two miles to a public access that ISN’T EVEN THERE! I pull the kayak up onto some rocks and walk over the levy to find food. Its 11 o clock and people wont even roll down their windows to talk to me. What do I look like, a gangster? I would say more of a hillbilly and hillbillies are virtually harmless. So this ginger walks into a bar… and I ask where I can find a gas station, but everything was closed. They asked what I was doing and where I am from, and in no time, whatever I wanted to drink was on the house.

Passing right by a Ocean Vessel at night!

I said I’ll take a tall glass of water on the rocks, and then proceeded to talk about why I am doing the trip. Talk about God’s provision, when I walked out of that bar, I had $100 in donations and a Tupperware container of hotdogs and buns. On top of that I was able to be a testimony of my faith. Got to bed at 2:30, but Matthew 6 reigned true today. God Does Provide! (Next to a 1200 Ft Tanker)

And This is What they Call a public Access. This is what I call a beach and I am trying to sleep here!

(Picture Right) I needed the wakeup call anyways. I was packed and paddling by 7:45 and let me tell you, my body is messed UP! My fingers can barely open or close, my left side hurts and feels like gelatin, a little rash here, a bee sting there, and the rudder peddles are, I kid you not, wearing holes in the bottom of my feet, and my knuckles are blistering, but just a little bit. I have this great plan for how today how today will and I will get 60+ miles! So much For THAT~! The Baton Rouge harbor wasnt to terribly bad and I was able to see the first ocean-going ship of the trip. I made 26 miles in about 4 hours so it is about 12 and I stop in Plaquemine (Picture Below)

Baton Rouge! 240 Miles to go.

I had a 44oz and a 32 oz refreshment, and then I found an outlet on the side of a building to charge my phone and iPod. While I am there it rains, so I wait out the storm, check out a very cool world artifacts store, filled up with water and went back to the kayak. Everybody seems to be die-hard Saint’s fans down here so I make sure to show my true colors, and express my disappointment in the unjust conclusion of the Saints and the Vikes game.

The rain was completely unexpected so a ton of my stuff including my journal got wet during the rain. I was just about ready to leave then I see a man and his daughter catfishing. I joined in and caught a 5 inch whopper! (Picture Below!)

I finally left at six and my determination is the strongest at night. I paddled hard for many good miles and what do ya know… Its dark again! I have a pretty good system down for paddling at night, but there is still no way to erase the dangers of it. It is unfortunate, but safety is just not promised on a trip like this, especially when you are alone. Boat traffic was heavy tonight. The moon was just high enough to reflect its light off of the black water, but before I was done kayaking the moon had sank below the western treeline putting me in complete darkness once again.

Just as I round a corner I spot a cluster of green, red, and blue lights ahead. Not being able to decipher what boat had such an awkward array of lights and at which speed or direction it was going, I decided that staying close to the shore was my safest bet. As the lights came closer, I realize that there is not just one barge, but two, both averaging 700 feet in length. One passed at a good distance, but the other came within 30 yards of me, but still I paddled by unsuspected. I couldn’t find a sand bar to sleep on until about 11 but once I did, I was down for the count. 56 Miles today.

I walk up the steep bank to a vacant house. it was nicely furnished so I assume that people still live there, but it may have been a camp in the outback judging from all of the bunk beds. I welcome myself in and walk over to the sink. As I turn the handle on the faucet, all I can hear is a bubbling sound, but no water! I try every single faucet, hose, or water source inside and outside the house was completely turned off. The direct sunlight and no water put me into a survivor mode; it was quite terrifying. The toilet was the only water source to have cycling water, and trust me I  thought about it, but then I see a 5 gallon jug of water and I fill up just enough to get me to the next town to fill up again with water.

After a few long and hard hours of paddling I was due for another break. All I wanted was to rest for a short 10 minutes, but that’s not all that I got. I pulled over to the river bank which happened to be straight down and about 2 feet high. Not wanting to pull it out of the water onto the steep incline of the bank, I just left it floating on the side of the river. I step out of the water onto the riverside and in a matter of seconds a barge rolls by and its waves continuously crash my kayak up against the rivers vertical bank. The water begins to fill up the kayak, and the waves that crash over the parked kayak knock many of my valuables into the water: the most important would be my 200 Page, 25 lb river map! As it and a few clothes float down river, I jump in to save the items. All was rescued but not I and everything else is wet and that barge  better not come around these parts… or else. I ended up pulling the kayak up onto shore, and All I wanted was 10 Minutes of Relaxation!!! This was the opposite of relaxing and I was there for over 1 hour and a half drying everything! The ONLY, (and I mean Only) good thing about this break was that I had the opportunity to meet, or should I say, Make my friend Wilson! He was inspired By Tom Hanks in the Movie Cast Away and he vaguely resembles my Uncle Victor.

There have been crazy storms everyday for the past 4 days and one whipped up while I was 30 miles from Baton Rouge. Some boaters saw me battling the waves and asked if I was ok. I said that I was and they gave me some ICE COLD WATER to keep me going. That part of the river was 116 feet deep. The sunset was the most magnificent Gold I have ever seen. A sunset like tonight seems to wash all of the days worries and hardships away, and let me tell you, today brought with it more hardships than a regular month in a persons average life. (Picture Right) I again, driven by insanity, paddled into the night to make it to Baton Rouge. I had a few close calls but for the most part I felt safe. I hit a random series of waves that nearly flipped me, but if I hadn’t kept going I would have had to camp in Devil’s Swamp. I ended up right near a bridge in Baton Rouge, I set up camp but I couldn’t find the Public Boat access that was on the map. Another late night but 69 Miles to show for it.

Ryan departed early this morning so his wife and 14 month old daughter Audry Grace escorted me back to the river with all I would ever need. I was on the river by 10, but I stuck around to use the precious Vicksburg cellular service to all everyone I needed to including my mother. I think I am making her old with all this worrying that she is doing. I didn’t start to paddle seriously until about one. at 2:30 or so it was a little cloudy and perfectly calm. At 2:35 it was down-pouring and the wind was blowing so hard that I had to shield my face from the sting of the water droplets. Winds were gusting at over 35 miles per hour and then in 10 minutes it was blue sky’s and sunny again. I was fine for another hour or so but then again a second storm of equal force came crashing through. Yesterday when this same thing happened I became quite frustrated but I will have to say that yesterdays trial has grown my patience. I didn’t get mad this time but I decided that I would get off the river before I had the chance to get mad. This next part is for mature audiences only. So I docked and climbed up a tree to the top of a steep bank. I try and wait out the rain but I just got worse so I decided to go swimming. I am 20 miles from any town, I havent seen anyone for about 90 minutes, and I don’t want my clothes to be soaking wet so we will say that my swim more so resembled a bath or a shower. I swim for about 20 minutes and just as I walk up onto the beach below the steep bank where my clothes are, a boat with 3 men comes whipping around  the corner. But there are not just three men in the boat, but three men and a Lady! I have virtually no place to hide or cover up, so I cover up my most important parts and I turn my backside to them. And with a grin I make sure to wave as they pass by hoping to make the situation a little less awkward. It was a full moon, but I figured that they would turn their head if they found it too disturbing. I couldn’t hear what they were saying but by their laughing I can only assume that they somewhat enjoyed the experience. From then on I put the paddling into high gear and went till 9:30 or so. I hid my kayak because there were some people scanning the beach with spotlights. No alligators, bull sharks, or snakes yet but I make sure to carry a knife when i swim just in case. Ended at mile marker 382 for 55 miles.

I would venture to say that more people have kayaked the Mississippi than have experienced a day like today in my shoes. This was my first full day alone and when you’re alone and all you have to rely on is God, it’s weird, you don’t feel alone anymore. I woke up on a large peninsula of sad at mile marker 710. The sunrise was a little dull but the clouds offered some relief from the strain of 100+ heat. The first portion of my day was filled with prayer, talking to myself, paddling, remembering why I am here, and a lot of deep thinking. The heat decided to come out at 11:30 and you know it’s hot when every pore in your legs are dripping sweat, as your just sitting there (this is a rare occurrence). God tested my faith with some early morning storms and winds which then turned into a stale and hot afternoon. Because of the lower water more rocks are above the water on the wing dams that are on the sides of the river. Not knowing how bad it was until I got there I often prayed for protection for the kayak from the stumps and rocks and it amazed me how I never hit the dam. And when I look back if I had gone down any other place it would have been bad news.

By lunch I had 47 miles done and I stopped at a casino on the Mississippi side of Helena where I journaled, charged my phone, and drank pop. I love these people. Most are happier and friendlier than the people in Memphis, bar one- Luke. God had answered so many small prayers today and after lunch there was another one: two storm cells on each side of the river. As I continue on the storms never touch me. I had the only blue in the sky right above me. The Ipod I inherited is great for motivation so from the end of my three hour break on I was on a roll. The day was gloomy and lightening was everywhere but by me and then Chris Tomlin came on. I looked around and saw God’s creation in a way I had never seen it before. All of nature seemed to have emotions and while most would call it a disappointing scene I have never seen something so gorgeous! I stopped paddling and regained my composure and went on towards the storm. Tonight I sat in the water watching two lightening shows, one on each side of the river and the sunset was majestic. I wish you could experience it because words can’t take you there. We stopped at mile marker 638.

Day 35- July 26th- 60 miles

(Gene didn’t upload page one of this day so all  have is page 2. This is the day he met up with Alex Linnel, the stand-up paddler from Mendota Heights, Minnesota. They spent the afternoon paddling together but they couldn’t continue to travel together because Gene gets up and going by 4 or 5 am and Alex doesn’t leave until around 9am)

(Page 2 of Day 35)

It was a fantastic time and we talked the hours away. They invited me to stay for supper so I willingly ate their hot spaghetti and fried summer sausage. It is unfortunate that I get up so early because I am sure that we  [Gene and Alex] could pass the time through chats. His father tagged along with him and I was quite at home with these fellow river-goers. We start at mile marker 637 and end at 578 for a total distance of 60 miles but we ended a little early. Good luck and best wishes to Alex for his record-setting achievement but I will be the first red-head to kayak the mississippi river without the use of sunscreen in the months of june july and august, so sorry alex your trip does not compare.

Day 36- July 27th- 64 miles

Dear Diary, how do you tell if a man is truly from Mississippi? He has a fabulous accent and he is missing at least 2 teeth. Today was a battle and I just had to bite the nail on this one. After 3 alarms I was finally on the water by 6:30. I left my good paddle boarder friend Alex and his father sleeping, and headed off for Greenville. I apologize for not having a lot of scenery but it has been the same for 400 miles. The river is about a mile wide, has adjacent flow, sandbars clutter the shores and there are no hills to speak of. The sun is very hot because we are getting closer to the equator, making the days consistently feel like an oven. Today is also an emotional day surprisingly. The scene is, I am on the river, the sun is pelting my body to where I can feel it burning and I should be in Greenville by now. I can see Greenville and what I thought should take about 20 minutes becomes 50 minutes. I am angered because after 40 miles I just wanted to be out of the sun and eating but instead I was paddling in place. I come close to throwing my paddle but decide that wasn’t one of my greater ideas. I show up at a park with no running water because of the flooding but the DNR officer was nice enough to help me out and chat for over 45 minutes. I ended up staying there for 5 hours and 6pm I raced on. I just barely missed a thunderstorm but in no time at all I had 2 foot waves to fight. The front end of the kayaking being empty went up and mashed down on every wave.The tediousness of it also frustrated me. Then I began to be joyful in my trials as paul says, and it gave me the umph to go on until 1020 pm, 2 1/2 hours past sunset. I was in a mode where I can paddle all night, and then as the sun sets the only light I had is the light of the barge in front of me. It was difficult to tell the land from water and sky, I pinpoint a barge that will lead me downriver but he happened to be coming right towards me, I pull aside and actually run myself into a beach without seeing the beach there. I paddled 24 miles into the night and the temp and the stars were perfect. stopped at 514 for a total of 64 miles today.

I forgot to mention night travel is difficult trying to tell distance and whether or not the light in front of you is a barge or a mile marker. It is as if at night you are going crazy fast and you are paddling in place, which is a totally unsettling feeling. I unexpectedly beach the second time and scare up some flying carp which in turn scares me. I sleep at the second beach. During lunch I pull the kayak completely out of the water but as I was away waves pulled the kayak back out to sea. As I come around the corner 2 hours after I left I see that the kayak wasn’t where I left it. Panic instantly sets in and as I look down the beach I can see the kayak pinned up against the rocks. The back current kept it close to shore but the back was completely swamped from the waves. At least I still have the kayak.

Day 37- July 28th- 75 miles

Due to the late night last night I slept in a little and was on the water by 7. There were clouds in the sky to block the direct rays of the sun and morning went decently well. I didn’t put in the miles I was hoping for before lunch but it was enough. I had 78 miles to travel today and I would have made it if wind wasn’t a part of todays package deal. My lunch break was a mere 30 minutes but 2 hours late I pulled over again due to an “I need to get out of this dang kayak” sick feeling. After a quick swim I was feeling better and back on the water. one of Luke’s friends, Ryan, was going to house me for the night in vicksburg so I had to make it there. 22 miles away I was face with some huge headwinds. Because of the lack of weight in the front of the kayak every wave ended in the kayak crashing down with a huge splash, slowing my speed down to quite possibly 2mph. I had spent a lot of time with God that morning and with this unexpected trial, I needed him more than ever. I became very angry at the situation I was in, and everything seemed to be encouraged and uplifted by God. The winds and the waves never failed to literally crush my spirits. I was completely physically and emotionally exhausted. The high winds and virtually unpenetrateable waves washed me up on shore 2 times. At this moment in time I had become frustrated with God for not making my life any easier. Then I came to the conclusion that firstly my complaining and blaming wasn’t making things better but was setting myself up for disappointment and failure. Secondly if i wasn’t willing to the hardships of this near daunting task than why was I there? Just then “stronger” came on my ipod and as true as it is if our God is for us who could stop us? and if our God is for us who could stand against us. Looking at my trials with joy gave me endurance beyond my own strength. I paddled into the dark, the barge traffic was ridiculous and I had quite a scare when I realized my intended path of travel put me almost right in front of the front end of a barge. After redirecting to safety I pulled up near a grainery and walked through some infested lands to get to Ryan who had been patiently waiting for me. First impressions of Ryan and his family were of absolute amazement. Stopped at mile marker 439 making today a 75 mile day and by far the hardest day.

I feel like I have truly hit the lottery finding Luke, but because I don’t gamble, I blame all of my good fortunes on God!  After waking up at a resonable time and eating breakfast, we headed off to Church.  I drank 2 cups of coffee this morning.  40 minutes before we had to be in the water I noticed a broken piece on the solar charger.  Luke had to catch a flight but he drove me around anyways with no luck.  When we finally got in the water, we shared hugs and handshakes and went our seperate ways.  I didn’t leave until 3 but the rest was necessary.  It had been an amazing weekend but it had to end… or did it?  I left memphis and for the first time I was alone.  No one to talk to or to stare at.  For 4 hours I paddled and made it about 25 miles.  The water had been dropping about 6 inches to a foot a day so sand bars are easy to find.  I picked one out and set up cam.  it was just me and God and his creation.  I loved it!  before my partners made me a little self conscious, but now anything goes and God has plenty of time with just me.  As the sun is going down the sunset breaks through the clouds with every color possible while at the same time a storm is taking over the southern sky.  The storm is making the sky a little green and yellow, and the sunset is showing off its blues, purples, red and oranges.  I find a nice spot to sit and watch this battle in the sky.  I feel so free and so protected under the wings of my heavenly father and I wouldn’t trade that for everything, not even another partner.